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I must have stirred, because Rachel woke.
"What time is it?"
"Dawn. Early. Good morning, beautiful."
"'Morning. Did you sleep?"
"I think so. I'm not sure. I spoke with Wawi. Or Wawi spoke to me."
"The Black Snake?"
"Indeed."
"And?"
"Wawi seemed surprised. I was to be met in a few days at Lake Mungo."
Rachel giggled. "I guess you didn't let Wawi know about our route change."
"I suppose I neglected that. Hungry?"
"And dirty."
"We'll drive back to Cobar, find a place to have a real breakfast, and you can wash in the ladies'. I'm hoping for chops and eggs and brownie."
"And a cuppa. More than one."
I gathered our stuff and we walked to the car and drove back to Cobar. There was a cafe with several utes in front, so I parked and we went in. After greeting everyone, we sat, ordered a genuine Australian breakfast (lamb chops, toast, eggs sunnyside up, marmalade or Vegemite, tea or coffee), and Rachel went to wash. It was tea for her and coffee for me. Neither of us would touch the Vegemite.
"Campin'?" one of the blokes asked.
"Sorta," I responded. "Sleepin' rough some nights, hotels and cabins others."
"Travelin'?"
"Got spliced before Christmas. This is our honeymoon."
"Lil cutie like that, I'd keep her in the swag."
"Stop braggin', Jakko. You couldn't keep up with her in a sack race."
The whole place was laughing when Rachel returned.
"You're an object of desire, dear." I remarked.
"Oh. We must be eating his favorite sheep," she said. The workmen broke up. Jakko turned purple. Just then, food appeared and we got quiet. By seven only the waitress and the cookie remained. The men had all said g'day and gone off to work. We finished our tea, I settled the tab and we left for Ivanhoe after visiting the loo before our drive.
"Ivanhoe?" Rachel asked.
"It's about halfway to Lake Mungo and it has a sort of motel/gas station/cafe."
She looked at the map. "It's where the road from Broken Hill crosses this one."
"Right. Gondoliers or Pinafore?"
"Pinafore so I can sing along. I don't know Gondoliers well at all."
I drove for a while without talking, just listening. After hearing what a 'right good' captain Corcoran was, how Buttercup advertised her wares and how 'the ruler of the Queen's navee' had achieved that rank, I got a bit bored."
"Ivanhoe used to be a rail junction, but that's no more. I know the town's down to under 1000, maybe under 500. We'll find Danson Accommodation, have a wash and a drink, and take a walkabout."
"At that size, a real walkabout will take ten minutes."
"A bit more. Under an hour. Maybe we can locate a spot to sit and read."
"And a five-star restaurant."
"You're being snarky!"
"Of course. I'm not expecting much. But a shower would be nice."
We found Danson, a small motel, some petrol pumps and a cafe. The room was adequate. The shower was a luxury. Rachel insisted in using her python. It was hot and we dozed away the afternoon. After dinner it was a bit cooler and we looked at the old rail station before showering again and sleep. In the morning we had a smaller breakfast, purchased fuel and a half-dozen bottles of water, and set out for Lake Mungo. It wasn't that far, but it took us over five hours.
We were both hungry, hot and tired when we arrived at Mungo Lodge.
"What's this?" Rachel asked.
"It's where we – actually you – will be staying. I've taken a cabin for two nights." I held up my hand. "I know. But I must do this by myself. I'll go walkabout a few hours after lunch. I may be back tomorrow. We both know I must be alone."
"Okay. I understand."
"We'll register and have lunch. Then we'll wash and rest. If you want, register for a tour. Ask for a Harry Nanya tour."
Mungo Lodge is currently 100% owned by Indigenous Business Australia which purchased the property in October 2003, in recognition of the significance of the National Park with its World heritage listing, Indigenous heritage, archaeological values & natural landscapes. IBA recently invested in a major redevelopment of the Lodge & the experience offered & has re-opened a 4 star property offering guests luxury in an outback setting.
It was after 1600 when I set out, two bottles of water and my swag were all I took. I knew Rachel was watching, but I didn't look back. There are many stories about looking back. Lot's wife. Orpheus. I walked a bit east of north. Soon there was no sound other than that of Australia. No cars. No airplanes. No radios. There was brush and red earth and a few tufts with white flowers. I came to some small hills and put down my swag it the sparse shade, and sat on it. I drank a little water. I thought of where I was. People had been here 50,000 years ago and more. They had lived and hunted and died. I looked around. I could die here.
The sun sank and the shade deepened. An early kite (I thought) swooped and picked up something near me. A lizard? A rodent? As it got darker, an owl could be seen patrolling the tufts. I drank some more water. As it grew darker, I could see the Southern Cross, and thought of Banjo Peterson's "the flag the Australian dies to save, /is the flag of the Southern Cross."
There was a rustling noise and an enormous head was in front of me.
"You are here."
"Yes. I was told that I was expected."
"Do you fear me?"
"Yes."
"Yet you are here."
"I am here only because you are here."
"Good answer. You are a carpet python. I am the snake of snakes. Let me envelope you."
I felt coil after coil of great size and strength wind about me. The face remained in front of me.
"You know that in the Dreamtime, I, the Rainbow Serpent, made laws that all were to obey, but some became quarrelsome and made trouble. So I proclaimed, 'Those who keep my laws will be rewarded; I shall give them human form. Those who break my laws will be punished and turned to stone, never to walk the earth again.'
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