PRISCILLA'S FIRST CANING PART IV free porn video

PRISCILLA’S FIRST CANING

Further remarks by Dr. Stanton

SECTION IV: THE CANE

Note: Just as a fascination in the female posterior (or bottom, as Dr. Stanton specifies it should be called in this context) was perhaps inevitable in light of his weekly engagements with this aspect of his students, it is no surprise to find that the features and use of the cane held an equal fascination for him. Nevertheless still remarkable is the almost scientific degree of observation and analysis that he developed in this study. It is remarkable how passionate he became about an inanimate object. I suppose he would have said that it became alive in his hands and in contact with its very lively target.

It would also be interesting, even if impossible, to know how much assistance his account might actually have been for a master or mistress new to corporal punishment. At the least, he seems to have felt he was providing an essential service.

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We must at this point, therefore, consider that implement, with the administration of which we are charged. As with everything else in these matters, care and respect are essential.

I strongly advise you to put yourself in the hands of one of the distinguished firms of long standing that supply the needs of disciplinary duty. They will assuredly recommend that you purchase only canes made with the utmost care from the very best rattan. There are other materials, such as bamboo, but they are liable to faults and imperfections that may render them liable to mishaps such as splitting.

If, while in use, a cane should break, this is not only likely to cut the skin of the bottom being punished (an occurrence that may necessitate your ending this particular session), but it will inevitably mar the sense of authority and inevitability upon which a successful chastisement depends. A good rattan cane has the ideal flexibility, the right weight, the perfect smoothness and the assured durability, all of which are essential to a successful beating.

You will find that reputable suppliers offer a variety of canes, and also advice on their suitability. My own recommendations are, briefly, as follows. Equip yourself with the traditional crook handles. I have noticed, from the reactions of the many young women who have had to visit my study for punishment, that the sight of the traditional crook-handled cane immediately causes appropriate apprehension. Such apprehension is to be encouraged, for it will add to the punishment's effectiveness.

From the point of view of the person administering the beating, a wrapped handle may be a trifle easier to grasp, but it significantly lessens the sensitivity inherent in the implement. A skilled caner will feel the impact of the cane across the bottom as it resonates through the cane itself, and will thus have a significantly increased sense of the effect with which that particular stroke has impressed its target. This is much more readily felt with the crook-handled type.

The most effective length of cane, in terms of the excellence of the welt it can raise, is 3'. However, its handling requires some skill, for the extreme flexibility resulting from its length can make the movements of its tip quite hard to control with the exactitude necessary, and can even result in its striking the user if it is too vigorously raised above the shoulder on the back stroke. If you are not fully practiced in the art, then content yourself with 2 1/2' cane to begin with, for it can produce many of the desired results. The extra 6 inches in a 3' cane will result in greater flexion, which in turn generates a faster speed at the tip. If you eventually graduate to a 3' length on the basis of confidence in your skill, you will find it capable of more subtle modulations of effect upon the bottom cheeks, a lengthened welt embracing both cheeks with less physical effort, and also a more intimidating sound. These effects are useful but not essential.

You should have at least three different weights of cane, as effected by their diameters. The smallest should be 1/4", the middle weight 5/16", and the thickest 3/8". If you believe that you may have to administer a punishment approaching a reformatory beating in severity, perhaps for a young woman whose conduct is at the point of leading her to such an institution, you may need a 1/2" cane (however, you should not use this thickness of cane unless you are well practiced). I recommend that you have two canes of each type, in case of accident. If you have each thickness in both lengths, you will then have a collection of 25, including a 3' cane of 1/2" thickness.

My own collection is slightly larger than this and I have had ample opportunity to use them all. The only disadvantage of this number is that you must maintain them. You should hang the canes from pegs, one cane to each peg, as this will help keep them straight. You should clean your canes after each use and periodically, once a month if possible, lightly oil them with refined linseed oil. It may be helpful also to flex them when you oil them. You should, however, avoid doing so to vigorously.

A good cane is so flexible that it may bend itself too sharply if its movement is not terminated by meeting with an appropriate obstacle. If there is no bottom, you may use a pillow. If the chore of oiling your canes seems excessive, you might consider putting it in the hands of some trusted pupil. One can be surprised by how such a task may please. I myself have sometimes given it to a young woman whom I have myself caned and who, I felt might be to be further reformed by the duty. As I recall, I had cause to cane her again only twice and, on these occasions, felt certain that her intimate knowledge of the implement significantly added to the impression it made upon her.


USING THE CANE

When a stroke of the cane is delivered fair and square across the center of a bared and proffered bottom, both recipient and deliverer will be in no doubt that an authoritative act of discipline has occurred. If the stroke should go astray, however, either too high or low, or extending too far around the further hip, the recipient will not only suffer pain that was not intended, but she will also fear that the person who delivered that stroke is either unskilled or unprincipled. In this case, if that latter person is aware of this reaction they will be humiliated. If they are unaware, then they are uneducated in these matters. In either case, their position of authority will have been compromised. It should be absolutely clear that this situation must be avoided if at all possible.

You would be surprised and perhaps shocked, however, to know how frequently this unfortunate situation has occurred. It is a result of the lack of both mental and physical preparation. Sometimes a mis-stroke results because the sight, especially the first sight, of a bared female bottom may be somewhat distracting. Sometimes it is because adequate coordination between eye and hand has not been developed. Sometimes it is because there is insufficient knowledge of the physics of the cane.

To alleviate the first problem has been the purpose of most of my remarks so far, and I will continue to address it. The second problem may be resolved to a significant degree by prior skill in appropriate sports, such as golf and cricket. Golf has the additional benefit of helping develop the strength of arm and wrist. If you have not pursued any such activities it will certainly do no harm to commence one forthwith. The third problem can only be ameliorated through specific practice. It is therefore necessary that, before you hear the first knock on your door indicating that a miscreant has arrived for her beating, you must be comfortably familiar with, and at least reasonably skilled in, the use of your cane.

For this reason I shall discuss some elementary matters of technique at this point, in hypothetical terms of practice, before proceeding later to the matter of actual execution.

Skill resulting from extensive practice is a prerequisite for you first successful caning. To acquire this, equip yourself with the following items: a 1/4"cane 3' in length, and a 5/16" cane 2 1/2' in length (any respectable school should have these available); a heavy upright chair with horizontal cross members in the back, a well and firmly stuffed cushion, approximately 7x14" (if necessary slightly more rather than less) and preferably covered in dark velvet; another cushion of approximately the same size (but its covering does not matter); approximately 8' of thick cord (such as that used for curtain pulls); and approximately 7" of 1/2' ribbon, lighter in color than the cushion. You will also require the assistance of someone who can sew. As a final detail, you may wrap a length of medical plaster around each cane, 4" from the business end.

The cushion, of course, is to substitute for a bottom and so its firmness should be judged accordingly. The dark velvet, unfortunately, will not match the attractive hues of a live bottom, but it will show the mark of a cane better than other materials (again, I fear, not nearly so attractively as a live bottom).

You must have your seamstress sew the ribbon across the face of one of the longer sides (the side covered in velvet if this is on one side only), one inch nearer one long side than the other. This will represent the ideal stroke of the cane, across the crown of the bottom.

Your seamstress should then cut the cord in three sections and sew two of then symmetrically along the edges of each smaller side of the cushion, so that approximately a foot length of cord extends from each corner. The third section should be attached parallel to the first two but midway between them (have her bind the ends secure for neatness' sake). This middle cord will not only help to attach the cushion to the chair but will also represent the bottom's cleft (the ideal bottom has a cleft that measures approximately the same length as the width of each of its cheeks and the importance of this feature will be apparent in due course).

The cushion will be tied tightly to the upper cross members of the chair back. It will probably be easier if you place the second pillow in front of the chair back and then fasten the cords around it. If you have no such pillows prepared but are in urgent need of practice, then you can coil a bed pillow around the top of the chair back and secure it with two belts.

It is important that you estimate accurately the height of your eventual target. Perhaps the best way to do this is to ask either your maidservant or your spouse to bend over the back of the chair (you cannot, in this age of course, ask your maid to disrobe for this exercise but a wife who understands the importance of your duties in this respect might agree to do so, which will make your estimation more accurate). The height to be estimated is that of the crown of the bottom to be caned. If you have no assistance from females in your household, you make take 2 1/2' as an average. The cushion should be tightly tied horizontally, so that the ribbon representing the perfect stroke lies at this height.

Start by familiarizing yourself with the feel of the cane. Beginning with the 1/4" 2 ½’ length, grasp the end firmly just before the crook, extending your arm loosely, and wave the cane to and fro. You must do this gently at first, always remembering that waving a rattan too vigorously can damage it.

Observe its flexion both backwards and forwards, gradually increasing the energy to a modest degree. Then, keeping your arm more or less still, wave the cane to and fro using your wrist alone. You will probably be surprised at how rapidly and how far the cane flexes. The appropriate effect of a cane stroke is achieved through the speed developing through the cane's flexion and not through the transfer of excessive force from your arm. The technique is much more that of golf rather than of cricket (and is even closer, it may be useful for some to note, to that of using a fly fishing rod). The speed that matters is that of the last foot or so of the cane's business end and this is increased by producing the maximum flexion of the cane on the back stroke and then by stopping the forward movement abruptly as it meets its target. The momentum acquired at that point by the flexing cane will cause it to curl around the curves of the bottom with maximum effectiveness.

These movements of the cane are so rapid that, to begin with, they will be invisible to you and so you must achieve them by thought and by feel. As your use of the cane becomes second nature, however, your eyes will remark them with increasing detail.

You are now ready to begin practice, but even practice should not be undertaken casually. You must bear in mind that, when the young lady who has just entered your study obeys your order to bend over and her bottom is bared (either by you or by her on your command), your equanimity maybe seriously disturbed (as I remember well in my own case). Obviously enough, a pillow will not have this effect. You should, however, use your imagination to practice also the mental discipline of quieting your emotions and concentrating on the target purely as a target, for this will be essential during the moments devoted specifically to delivering the stroke.

Stand to one side of the pillow (to right or left according to which hand you use - do not try to change your natural inclination, but I will continue my description as for a right-handed person), turning slightly towards it, extending your arm loosely (not stretching it), and lay the cane across the horizontal ribbon on the pillow.

It is most important that you pay strict attention to a first principle from the very beginning. The welt that your cane will leave when it strikes its first live bottom should extend equally across both bottom cheeks. This extent of this welt, however, will be very different from the contact that the cane has with the bottom as it lies across it in preparation for the stroke about to be delivered.

The difference arises from the cane's flexibility and it is particularly important to control this in relation to the further bottom cheek. If the tip of the cane strikes this cheek only just beyond the cleft, then it may well dig so deeply into the bottom that it breaks the skin. In general, such damage will mean that the punishment will have to be interrupted and continued only when the cut has healed. To avoid this situation, the obvious remedy is to stand a bit closer so that the cane extends further. An opposite effect, however, is almost as bad. If the cane lands across the bottom with too much of its tip extending beyond the further cheek, then the momentum of the tip will cause it to keep curling around until it cuts into the side of the miscreant's hip. If it does so then it is likely to cause excessively severe damage, since the hipbone lies close to the skin. Such a result should be strictly against your rules. Your cane must land only on the resilient flesh of the bottom proper.

The tip of the cane, as you lay it across your target in measuring your aim, should therefore extend approximately 2-3" (depending on the particular shape of this bottom) beyond the point of its final contact with the further cheek. This will ensure that, when the cane lands across the bottom on the actual stroke, the tip will continue onwards far enough to meet the cheek and inflict what is still an appropriately painful ending to the welt, but not so far as to damage the hip.

The cushion, if appropriately tied, will present two bulges that are somewhat equivalent to the curves of two bottom cheeks, but to assist your preparation you may practice this important rule by positioning the cane with the piece of plaster (which I have suggested you apply to the cane) lying over the vertical ribbon that represents the bottom cleft.

The first stroke that you practice will be the wrist stroke. Although this is the least severe, it is much the easiest to execute accurately and, if executed with skill, can be sufficiently painful. Laying the cane across the horizontal ribbon, begin flexing the wrist backwards and forwards, slowly increasing the abruptness of the movements of your wrist and making sure that the cane always lands along the ribbon. You will soon discover the principles of this stroke and may then continue trying to achieve a sharper and sharper impact of the cane.

Cock your wrist back as sharply and as far as you can and then immediately snap it forward. Using the wrist alone will ensure that the forward movement stops at the appropriate point. The sound of the cane hitting the pillow will tell you how effective this can be on a bottom, especially one that is still young and as yet unacquainted with the cane.

This is an excellent technique to use for administering the first six (of a minor best) to such a miscreant. If it should still be the only technique with which you are comfortable at a time when a more serious punishment is required, it is readily adaptable.

You may substantially increase its effect, first of all, by making sure that every stroke lands exactly on the same spot (relatively easy with this technique), by administering them in rapid succession (also relatively easy), and by administering more than one group of six strokes, pausing to allow the effect to sink in between each group. Although these remarks belong more properly in a later section, I include them here so that beginning practitioners of the cane may not be dismayed by the fear that their repertoire is necessarily inadequate.

We continue here, however, with the 5/16", 3’, cane and with what I call a half-stroke. Exercise this cane also by waving it gently to and fro, at first with the arm and then with the wrist. You will doubtless feel its slight extra weight and its correspondingly slightly slower movement. This necessitates a modification in your movements, with slightly greater effort and slightly more pause at the end of its backwards traverse. You will also note, however, that its ultimate flexibility is even greater than that of the 2 1/2' cane and it is, again, this flexibility that must serve your purpose.

A half-stroke requires that the arm be raised only halfway on the backward movement. You can begin this stroke quite gently, allowing your wrist to bend forward as you start and having your elbow lead the movement. At the conclusion of the backward sweep, however, your wrist must again snap sharply backwards resulting in maximum flexion to the cane. Your timing is now crucial, since the following rapid downward movement of your arm must commence just as the cane is reaching its maximum backwards flexion. You may practice this before taking up your position, allowing yourself to watch the cane's motion but making sure that your forward movement ends gradually so as not to stress the cane unnecessarily.

When you feel familiar with this part of the stroke, prepare for the full practice.

Although you will be aiming for the ribbon, you cannot expect to achieve great accuracy at first and it will be important for you to observe what accuracy you do in fact achieve. The impact of the cane will leave a visible line in the velvet cover of the cushion but, if you wish for greater clarity then you may dust the pillow with a white powder, such as talc, or even flour.

You may wish for a larger pillow for your target. However, I encourage you to use the size suggested, which is approximately that of an average bottom. Should you miss it, the cane will either fly onwards in midair, or strike the chair. In either case, the surprise should be sufficient to persuade you to improve your aim immediately.

The reason for this recommendation requires, again, that we look somewhat ahead in our remarks. We have already identified the second rule that you should resolutely adopt: the cane must land only across the bottom. As noted earlier, the female bottom seems to have been designed with the specific intention that it should not only present a perfect target for the cane, but should also be well able to sustain a caning with lasting effect on the mind of the miscreant but only a temporary effect on the bottom itself.

A stroke that lands above the bottom runs a grave risk of damaging the backbone, and one below the bottom lands on the thighs, where the welts may later be visible at inappropriate moments. For the purpose of caning, therefore, you should consider the bottom to begin a trifle below where the cleft appears and to end where the cheeks meet the thighs. This is the reason that my recommendations are very strict in regard to your practice from the very beginning.


You are now ready to take up your position as before, beside the chair and pillow, remembering all that you have learnt so far. Stand straight but relaxed, moving your shoulders around if this helps to achieve a sense of ease, take a few moderately deep breaths and then breathe easily. Lay the cane along the ribbon and fix your gaze on the ribbon under your cane (not on the cane itself, of which you should be as oblivious as possible). When you feel both relaxed and concentrated, deliver the stroke. It should be nearly horizontal, only slightly upward on the backstroke and then slightly downward on its way to the bottom.

When it comes to an actual caning, if the young woman is positioned properly then the crown of her bottom will be facing as much backwards as upwards. Keeping the sweep of the cane nearly horizontal is an effective way to ensure that it will strike the lower, more fleshy portion of the cheeks.

But we get ahead of ourselves! Returning to your beginner's practice, note that the movement of your arm should, again, end with a final vigorous forward snap of your wrist as the cane meets its the target. The first time you do this, you may well feel awkward and your aim is unlikely to be good. You should continue practicing, attempting to achieve a state where you do not consciously decide to start the stroke but, rather, one where your mind and body realize that they are perfectly composed and take the action almost u*********sly.

In developing your technique (even if you later modify it according to personal preferences) there are two main approaches to the moment in which the stroke commences, and you should follow that which you find easier. Either you may become quite still, resting the cane motionless along the line of its impending impact, and then deliver the stroke with a decisive suddenness. Or else you may, having measured your aim carefully, raise and lower the cane three times, only a few inches, either gently or perhaps just sharply enough to sound a slight "tap." Again, make absolutely certain to keep your eyes fixed on the target, not on the cane, and after the third tap deliver the stroke immediately and with no indecision whatsoever.

Your conscious attention should remain fixed absolutely on that horizontal line across your target until the stroke is completely finished and the cane has quieted the vigorous flexions which will follow its impact.

There are four measures of success. The first is the accuracy that is measured by whether the cane lands at the right height on the cushion (or bottom), as close to the ribbon as possible. The second is whether the stroke lands horizontally, for in an actual caning it is much easier to control the effect of successive strokes if they are all parallel (the appearance of a pattern of parallel welts is also, at least to my eye, much more pleasing). The third measure is whether the cane lands equally across both cheeks.

At the risk of repeating myself, I must again emphasize this point. If you discover, even from observing your cushion, that you have extended the cane too far around the further cheek, there are several ways to remedy this. You may simply stand a little further way, in which case the result will be a better centered but probably also a shorter welt.

If, however, you move slightly to your left while turning very slightly to your right and your stroke is hard enough, then the impact of the cane will start nearer, around the side of the closer cheek, and then the remaining length of cane will continue onwards, curling around and into the further cheek, but its tip will not end so far around the further hip.

A more difficult way to achieve the same result is to land the cane with a slightly less extended arm and the wrist still bent slightly back. Controlling these exact dimensions of the welt resulting from the stroke is among the more subtle skills that you may acquire. They are hard to estimate, of course, until you are caning a live bottom.

This also applies to the fourth measure, which is the severity and effectiveness with which the cane meets its target. Your indications of this while practicing will be those of sound and feel. In an actual caning, of course, the reaction of the young woman and the appearance of the welt developing across her bottom will inform you much more effectively. You can, nevertheless, in your practice achieve considerable skill in all these respects.

As you repeat this exercise, your aim will certainly improve and you will increasingly be able to tell when your movements have been well coordinated, by the sound and feel of the cane's rapid descent and impact.

When you have achieved sufficient accuracy in striking the ribbon, you may move on to a skill that often become desirable once you have actually embarked on your first live caning. This is to deliver successive strokes in a regular, descending pattern.

It is customary to start a caning higher up the bottom and conclude as close as possible to the crease between cheek and thigh. In your practice, start as near to the top of the pillow as you dare and then progress downwards, attempting at first to achieve a distance of about 1"between the strokes, again approaching as close to the bottom of the cushion as you dare. The penalty of missing the pillow will train you well in that confidence of aim that will be essential when you are facing a live bottom, when the penalty of landing your cane outside its proper region would certainly diminish your control and authority. When you have achieved some accuracy at strokes 1"apart, you may proceed to attempt a distance of 1/2".
Do not expect success to come too soon and, when it does come, return to practice again and again until you no longer have any doubt that you can rely on your accuracy. However, despite the fact these suggestions are concerned with matters of technique in substitute circumstances, I feel obliged to repeat my urging that you do not forget your eventual aim, which will be to apply these skills to a living bottom. This is not only a matter of practicing in your imagination the equanimity that you will have to bring to this event, it is also a matter of reminding yourself that the cane will not be landing on a cushion, but on the bottom of a young woman who is very much alive, with all that this means for what happens when the cane meets the flesh of a bottom connected by manifold nerves to a female body and to a brain at the other end. If you do not constantly remind yourself of these more human conditions to come then, even with a well-practiced technique, you may well suffer some untoward surprises.

Returning after that reminder to the matter of technique, the next stroke you should practice is the full-stroke with the 5/16th" cane. The principal differences here, of course, are that you will raise the cane well behind your shoulder and the resulting stroke will be considerably harder. If you have already familiarized yourself with the cane's flexibility, then you will be able to manage this longer motion with little trouble.

I do recommend, however, that you first experiment with raising the cane this far while watching it over your shoulder, thus demonstrating to yourself of how far the cane can bend if swept farther back with greater vigor. You may also turn your body smooothly to the right as you sweep the cane backwards, turning back to your left as you bring it down. The forward stroke should, indeed, be vigorous and the increased energy of the stroke should be readily sensed in the sounds it makes in travelling through the air and in landing on its target.

You should not, however, attempt to deliver the stroke with all the strength at you command. It is probably never appropriate to deliver a stroke of such force across the bottom of a young woman, and the techniques already described can already deliver an impact that will be sufficiently painful and will result in bruises that may last for two to three weeks. In addition, there may well be an occasion when you wish to administer a caning that is even more severe than your normal maximum. This will not be difficult if you have followed my recommendations for control in your delivery, since sweeping your arm a bit higher and faster even than the normal full-stroke, and turning your body more fully, will easily produce this result.

In general, however, I refer to six strokes with the wrist simply as "six," with the half-stroke as "six good strokes," and with the full-stroke as "six of the best," leaving anything harder than that for exceptional punishments.

These different "six strokes," moreover, will vary further in effect according to which cane you use. At this point in your practice, you should therefore return to the 1/4" cane and practice both the half and the full-strokes. When you are comfortable with these strokes, you may acquire a 3/8th" cane and proceed to practice with both these strokes. After this, you may practice the extra-hard stroke with all three canes. Should your skills develop satisfactorily, then you may use canes that are 3'in length.

If you have learned control of the flexion in a 2 ½’ cane, then extending this control for a further 6" should follow naturally. Eventually, depending on your responsibilities, you may need to practice with the 1/2" cane, which should be 3' in length.. The heavier canes must be used vigorously, for if used too gently then they do not bend enough to acquire the necessary momentum. With that condition, however, it is obvious that they will inflict greater damage. There is one qualification to this rule, however, and that is the 1/4" cane. This cane, having the smallest diameter, can bite more deeply into the flesh of the bottom and, if used with great force, will leave very prominent welts and can even break the skin. It is therefore in some ways the cane with the widest range of results, varying from the lightest "six" for the youngest miscreant to a severe punishment for the most incorrigible offender. Its full range of use requires long and careful practice.


Our subsequent instructions will approach issues of how to manage a caning “in the flesh”, so to speak.